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Michael Rothenstein: Butterflies Through Others Eyes #37

A selection of printed and painted butterflies by artist/printmaker Michael Rothenstein (1908-1993).

Dan Colen: Sweet Liberty

I was very curious to see this first major British show of former enfant terrible of the American art scene - Dan Colen, whose work never seems to take itself seriously, and gleefully references previous American artists and movements - specifically Pop. As with so many who have gone before him, over-indulging in the excesses and distractions of the big city, Colen seems to have got his act together, removing himself from said big city temptations, fully embraced the rural lifestyle, and as a result is enjoying a renewed focus on his work. The exhibition opens with Colen's huge installation - The Big Kahuna, impressive in both scale and ambition. Possibly a commentary on the realities of living in the Trump administration's America, and the critical gaze and opinions of observers from around the globe on that country.

The monumental sculpture was complimented by this kitschy painting of cherubs, and American blue-collar worker plaid in the same gallery. You are then confronted by these comical cartoonish holes punched into the gallery walls. Their significance is fully realised when you venture further into the gallery space and encounter popular art icons such as an animated 3-D Scooby Doo surrounded by arte povera references in empty wine bottles, cigarette stubs, and a huge studded canvas artwork.

The artwork in the first of the upstairs galleries is really strong, with more cartoon cut-outs incised into the walls, and this showing of what look like inflated/deflated glass Whoopee cushions on floors and chairs. Tread carefully! There are also some good, large abstract expressionist style action paintings full of colour and movement.

What I was really curious about and looking forward to seeing, was this signature Colen chewing gum painting. The colours and textures were really pleasing, and again paid homage to the work of the abstract expressionists, and were reminiscent of a stippled Seurat painting. I would love to know what certain abstract expressionist painters would have thought of this, and Colen's other chewing gum pieces.

As mentioned earlier, the playfulness of the exhibition was punctuated by these cartoon-style, cut out interventions breaking through the very fabric of the gallery walls. Damien Hirst must have had a lot of faith in Colen and his work to have allowed such a drastic intervention on the foundations of his gallery space. I thought they were great visual puns. They showed a real sense of daring and fun, and complimented the cartoon characters - Wil E. Coyote and Roger Rabbit - famous in animated cartoons for the very same slapstick shenanigans, who made guest appearances in the upper galleries (below).

The weakest element of the show are these slogan-type paintings (above). They seem quite crude, and unsophisticated in comparison to the other works and concepts on offer, and in contrast to the meticulous execution of those other pieces, in what is otherwise quite a strong exhibition. There is quite a realistic in-your-face sculpture of the the nude Colen, recumbent and proud in all his - semi-tumescent glory - in the last gallery, which amusingly goes some way to making up for the weaker paintings surrounding it. The show ends on a very funny high, however, with Shoes (2013-17), a pair of battered Nike trainers magically tap-dancing their way across the ceiling of the exit stairwell by themselves. They inspired a sense of awe, wonder, and laughter in me. You really need to experience this for yourself. Sweet Liberty is a very rewarding, playful exhibition.

Dan Colen: Sweet Liberty
until 21st January 2018
Newport Street Gallery
London 

Burberry: Here We Are

I approached Burberry's Here We Are display with much anticipation, having visited and really enjoyed their Makers House exhibition, inspired by the work of Henry Moore earlier this year (here). Here We Are, is held in Clerkenwell at the Grade II listed Old Sessions House, originally built as a public meeting place. The place exudes history. The ground floor and lower floors once housed a court and prison cells, and the top floors were the former home to the Judge's Dining Rooms. Many prisoners sadly, would go on to suffer penal transportation to Australia from this building for their crimes. The building is also featured in literature, being the place where Dicken's Oliver Twist appeared before magistrates in 1837, after taking the blame for his pickpocket friend the Artful Dodger. I had passed the Old Sessions House on numerous occasions in the late 80s and 90s (as it was on my well-worn route to the former illustrators reference library just around the corner), and had often wondered what lay behind the imposing exterior of this attractive building. Here We Are gave me the chance to finally enter, and see for myself the now pared back but still beautiful interiors of this historic building. I wasn't disappointed. The central dome below, is absolutely magnificent.

Here We Are showcases Burberry's latest collection, and celebrates British photography which artfully complements the gorgeous clothes on display. The exhibition is spread across three floors, and is divided into sections dealing with typically British concerns such as the weather, gardens, picnics, work, pomp, social types and tastes, and also romance across religious and racial divides. There is so much to take in and contemplate.

The clothes this season are particularly impressive. There is meticulous attention to detail in the the combinations of colours and patterns - be they the traditional famed Burberry checks, the knitwear, or the interesting doodles and graffiti on the macs. I liked the delicate, floral machine embroidery on the gossamer dresses and skirts (below), and also the appropriation of traditionally masculine uniforms, with their connotations of war and violence, subverted and used in softer feminine guises as skirts. The jewellery in the form of large, bold brooches was also gorgeous, and brought to mind jewellery pieces created during the Art Deco era.

The photography was strong, incorporating memorable images by Martin Parr, Tessa Traeger, Ken Russell and Bill Brandt among many others. They complimented the clothes beautifully. Christopher Bailey and his team of co-curators Lucy Kumara Moore and Alasdair McLellan have done a wonderful job.

The Old Sessions House is such an interesting venue as you can see from the pictures. The former grandeur of the large rooms may now have gone with just layers of stripped and peeling paint and bare floorboards left, but despite this the rooms are still full of character. This Burberry show was a great chance to access this building, and it's a pity that we weren't allowed to go down into the cellars to see the originals spaces where the prisoner's cells would have been. I think it is a genius move on Burberry's part to have come up with these showcases which allow the public to access their collections as one would an art exhibition, as they demystify the processes of art production and of fashion design, and will I am sure inspire and breed a new generation of fashion and textile designers. Absolutely wonderful! Cannot wait to see where and what Burberry comes up with next.

Burberry: Here We Are

until 1st October

Old Sessions House

22 Clerkenwell Green

London