The Calouste Gulbenkian Museum

One of the main reasons for choosing to visit Lisbon was the opportunity to revisit the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum. It is a fantastic collection of art and design amassed by Armenian oil magnate Calouste Gulbenkian (1869-1955), that covers virtually all phases of Eastern and Western art. Visitors walk through the collection chronologically and encounter amongst other items Egyptian carvings, beautifully designed and minted Greek coins, the wonderfully coloured and patterned Iznik pottery and Persian carpets.

The Egyptian and Assyrian carvings were so delicate and skilfull.

Sorry, couldn't resist these Japanese lacquered butterflies.

Boy Blowing Soap Bubbles (1867), by Edouard Manet, was a highlight of the painting collection.

These are some of the fantastical creations by design genius René Lalique (1860-1945). This man's imagination and creativity was something else. I don't think his work has been surpassed in the field of jewellery design. He was such a visionary, and one can only imagine the wonder and delight his work was met with when he unleashed it on the public at the height of the Art Nouveau movement. The Cockerel Head tiara below is stunning.

The last room of the Gulbenkian Museum is dedicated to his work and I was eager to visit it to see the Peitoral- libélula, or Dragonfly Lady brooch which was the prime inspiration behind my own Dragonfly series of works. It was absolutely huge for a brooch, and I can imagine anybody fortunate enough to be wearing it would have felt quite uncomfortable in case they broke it. It was a real privilege to see it, and I felt inspired all over again. She is so beautiful!

Weirdly enough after leaving the Gulbenkian I headed into the old town, and in a courtyard being renovated up by Lisbons' Castelo, I came across this huge pair of dragonfly wings just randomly hanging aloft. I don't know why they were there. Were they perhaps part of an artist's installation? Or rescued from the buildings in the courtyard which were undergoing renovation? No matter, they were beautiful, and a timely, serendipitous find having just visited my dragonfly muse.

These remaining pictures are of the lovely, peaceful, landscaped grounds of the Gulbenkian, and Museum of Modern Art (which is just across the gardens). The Museum of Modern Art currently has an interesting exhibition about Robert and Sonia Delauney's stay in Lisbon from 1915-17, and their influence on Lisbon artists, which closes on 22nd February.

Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian
Centro de Arte Moderna
Rua Dr. Nicolau de Bettencourt
1050-078 Lisboa
Portugal
http://www.cam.gulbenkian.pt/

Lisbon

I was last in Lisbon far too many years ago, as a young slip of a lad whilst interrailing with student friends. With the London weather doing its worst in January, I decided a return visit was long overdue, and so packed a bag and flew south to the Portugese capital in search of better weather and some inspirational art.

I wasn't too impressed to be greeted upon arrival with a downpour of rain, but this soon dried up, and I was able to make my way into the heart of the city. And what an architecturally impressive city it is. 

There were lots of wonderful large period buildings, many now sadly abandoned to the elements and grafitti artists, which spoke of a once prosperous past. They were like grand old dames who had fallen on hard times, but who still managed to retain an air of grandeur. Happily there seems to be a lot of renovation and restoration work going on behind the crumbly facades, so these period buildings are being saved and given a new lease of life. There were also many examples of Art Nouveau and Art Deco architecture which is a period in art and design that I particularly admire. It was a pleasant surprise to see an Art Nouveau period Metro station still in service in Lisbon. They were originally designed by Hector Guimard and usually found in Paris.

I kept returning to this church. There was a real feeling of peace and serenity inside. It looked as though there had been a fire inside that had affected and blackened the stone-work. I am not sure if it is a survivor of the massive earthquake of 1755 that devastated the city, but I like that they hadn't attempted to over-restore it, and kept the blackened stone-work largely as a reminder of its past.

The Portugese love their decoration. Many buildings are covered in azulejos - the lovely hand-painted ceramic tiles which adorn buildings all over the city. Some examples of these tile designs go back as far as 500 years. Other examples of Portugese decoration can be seen with stucco reliefs or detailed, decorative carved stonework on buildings.

There is also lots of elegant wrought ironwork which still remains on the building facades protecting the gates and windows. Thankfully this wasn't removed on a large scale during the wartime era and melted down for ammunition as in other European countries.

There were also some stunning examples of statuary on display which the Portugese do so very well.

I really enjoyed just aimlessly wandering the narrow, winding, backstreets of the Castelo and Alfama districts and seeing the higgledy-piggledy layout of the houses. Being built on hills, Lisbon has some very steep streets which gave my legs and feet a really good workout, the views though, made the treks completely worthwhile.

Being based on the river Tagus there are big skies, the air is fresh and has a certain sweetness to it that you don't get in London.

I loved the rattle and clatter of the old yellow trams which wended their noisy way around the city. They are full of character, and integral to the charm and identity of Lisbon.

On the tram from Belem I encountered this dapper old gent. He was full of old school charm, and immaculately dressed with his fedora, silk scarf, leather gloves, pocket handkerchief and highly polished shoes. He was like a well-preserved relic from a completely different, more refined age.

His manners were just as impeccable as his dress sense, as he was, to his credit, the only man who despite his advanced years, stood up to offer his seat to the women who got on the tram. Had my Portugese language skills been stronger I would have loved to engage him in conversation to find out about his life.

Cakes and pastries of course are a Portugese institution. I had more than my fill of the sweet little custard pasteis de natas. I would get very fat if I lived there!

I really enjoyed the time spent in Lisbon. It was very fruitful, both enlightening and inspiring. I returned to London revived for having seen some art and sunshine and I look forward to a return visit in the near future. More on Lisbon in my next post.