Sunday, 19 September 2021

Anna Ray: On Tenterhooks

Anna Ray - Capture, (detail)


"I'm interested in rhythm, symmetry, patterns that expand and contract. A lot of my work isn't fixed and it might be arranged in another way in a different space. It has a vulnerability in that way, although the finessing is important as well." - Anna Ray. .


Capture


As mentioned in my last post it has been a good year for exhibitions of textile art in London. Whereas that post dealt with textiles used in a practical context, this features textiles produced in an art context. It is an issue I've focused on previously earlier in the year (here, and here) and this show continues the trend. The exhibition is set across two sites in the City and features the large, very architectural/sculptural textiles of Anna Ray full of strong shape and vibrant colour. The exhibition takes its title from the hooked nails found on wooden frames used as far back as the 14th C. to dry woollen cloth. The expression "on tenterhooks" is also used to mean being in a state of nervous unease, anxiety or suspense - a state the whole world has been in since the lockdowns due to the arrival of the coronavirus pandemic. Ray actually created many of the artworks installed here during last year's first lockdown. Inspiration came from this particular area of London, famed for its historic associations with the textile industry with streets named after aspects of the industry such as Fashion Street, Tenter Street, and Threadneedle Street. There is also familial connection for Ray as her ancestors were Hugenot refugees, weavers and textile workers who settled in the East end in the 18th century and were employed in the textile industry there. Ray incorporates a variety of textile processes in her art - wrapping, weaving, painting, stitching, staining and sewing, working intuitively, not always knowing what the outcome of a piece will be. The artworks produced are versatile and be be piled on the floor to occupy space like a sculpture (Margate Knot), or adapted to be wall-mounted (Stripe, and Bloom). The works at Aldgate Tower are created from the tufted carpet top samples, gathered from a carpet weaving company. Ray rescued the off-cuts and tangled thread leftovers which she recovered and then reconfigured to create new artworks. These are playful, sculptural, art-textiles with similarities to those of Sheila Hicks also seen very recently here in this blog. Disappointingly, visitors to the Aldgate Tower venue of this exhibition should be advised that not all artworks there are accessible to the general public. Certain artworks remain tantalisingly out of reach behind barriers available only for staff to view due to the security concerns of the building.


Weave

Weave, (detail)

Margate Knots

Margate Knot (detail)
 
Margate Knot

Stripe

 
Bloom
 
Bloom (detail)

Offcut Turf

Offcut Turf (detail)
 
Offcut Turf
 
Madame Bovary

Madame Bovary
 
Madame Bovary

Offcut Sample

Offcut Sample



Anna Ray: On Tenterhooks
until 1st October
99 Bishopsgate & Aldgate Tower 
London, EC2M and E1 8QN

Sunday, 12 September 2021

Baghs - Abstract Gardens: Embroidered shawls from Punjab




I made a trip to the Brunei Gallery at SOAS in Russell Square for the first time in many, many years to see one of the most impressive exhibitions of the year thus far. The exhibition is yet another of stitched textiles which have been both inspirational and influential on my own work of late. This year I have ejoyed exhibitions of art textiles which straddle the fine divide between craft/fine art, and those of skilled but previously uncelebrated utilitarian textiles. These textiles have a more practical purpose but are now being appreciated for the artistry of their aesthetics and the merits of their technical profiency (here, here and here). This show consisting of densely embroidered Punjabi shawls falls most definately into the latter category. Baghs ('gardens') and phulkaris ('flower-work') are cotton head coverings that were made mainly in the 19th century in pre-partition Punjab mostly by groups of Sikh, Hindu and Muslim women and young girls over several months as part of their wedding trousseau or for religious ceremonies, and were kept as family heirlooms before they were then created commercially for export. The future brides grandmother would be the main embroiderer, and other family members would assist in the completion of the shawl. Baghs 'gardens' have their entire surface covered in dense embroidery. Phulkaris 'flower-work' have less embroidery with much of the cotton khaddar base visible. Baghs are therefore the most prized and most expensive of the shawls. Women carried out the cotton picking and spinning; the thread would then be hand-woven into the coarse cotton cloth known as khaddar, before being passed on to be dyed with indigo or red colours. All the embroidery was done freehand without a pattern and from the back by counting threads in darning stitch using floss silk (heer). This technique was ideal for showing most of the silk in the front as only a single thread would be caught in the back. The stitchers of these shawls and head coverings were absolutely masterful in their craft knowing exactly how to place each stitch in order to catch the maximum light generating the most beautiful, lustrous sheens on the shawls which can be seen in the pictures below especially on the gold examples. It is that same light reflective surface sheen that I have been trying to capture in my recent gold leafed spotted pieces. The shawls displayed at SOAS are from the celebrated personal collection of Karun Thakar, and as the title of the exhibition suggests the majority of shawls are decorated with floral or tree motifs which can be straightforward designs, or abstracted and mixed with geometric motifs such as squares, triangles, chevrons, diamonds and trellis-like partitions. Again as at the exhibition of Gee's Bend quilts earlier this year I was struck by the sheer variety of different patterns and designs, and how with hindsight you could liken some of the shawl designs with certain future developments and movements in modern art such as colour field painting or hard-edge abstraction. Also included in the exhibition are unusual examples of embroidered baghs that take their inspiration from figurative forms rather than flowers, and gold and silver head crowns worn by grooms on their wedding turbans. This exhibition demands a return visit so that I can further fully appreciate the dazzling array of designs and patterns of these shawls. Each shawl is stitched and embroidered with the hopes and dreams of a young bride in mind, and the possibility of a future filled with romance and motherhood. Love is sewn into every last one.


















































































Baghs - Abstract Gardens
until 25th September
Brunei Gallery, SOAS
Russell Square
London
WC1