Saturday, 28 May 2022

Ghada Amer: My Body My Choice

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"I believe that all women should like their bodies and use them as tools of seduction" - Ghada Amer


Quite the provocative statement by Amer above, whose artistic career has been built on frank representations of female sexuality on canvas. It's quite a timely statement too given the attacks on the female body leading to the #MeToo movement, and the current outrage in America as the US Supreme Court seeks to overturn the landmark Roe v Wade ruling in favour of a woman's right to choose an abortion in circumstances such as rape. Not surprisingly this erosion of a woman's rights to her own body and reproductive rights has been met with much resistance. President Joe Biden has waded into the debate promising to "be ready when any ruling is issued to fight the attack on reproductive rights." Amer states - "In Western societies, there is an assumption, especially among younger generations, that the battle of the sexes has been won, that women have been liberated, and that their rights are secure. And yet, we are witnessing today a sharp regression of women's rights and a stark rise of violence against women. However, in countries where one assumes women's rights to be limited or absent, such as in Egypt, Iran, Afghanistan, or Mexico, women of the younger generation know they have a lot to gain from fighting for those very same rights that are eroding in the West." The canvases here depict women totally at comfort in their bodies and sensuality, but are not as explicit as previous canvases. The typographic canvases contain phrases which relate to teachings on women's rights from both male and female authors that reassert the need for women to never relinquish their rights to their bodies. This is Amer's first solo show in London in twenty years, and my decided and overriding interest was, like myself, her being an artist who also employs textiles techniques to stitch pictorial depictions into a ground/support. The exhibition comprises ceramics, embroidered canvases, and sculptures. I enjoyed the ways in which the linear, bronze sculptures of women in certain stages of undress played with, and cast shadows and differing perspectives under certain lights. Perhaps the most surprising aspect of Amer's practice to me was that which involved her designing and creating gardens. It was really inspiring to see the installation of an array of planters filled with flowers spelling out the title of the exhibition in the gallery space. I thought this was a particularly beautiful and poignant manifestation of Amer's art which spoke of a sense of peace and reconciliation.

 

 




 





























Remy Jungerman: Fault Lines

 

Sharing the lower exhibition space of the Goodman Gallery concurrently are the textile based works of artist Remy Jungerman's first solo show in London. The works here are complimentary to those of Ghada Amer. Jungerman's work is new to me but he has a good artistic pedigree having just had a major survey at the Stedelijk in Amsterdam and having co-represented the Netherlands at the 58th Venice Biennale in 2019. Jungerman is an Afro-Dutch artist who creates a dialogue between Western art historical narratives and his own Surinam Maroon culture and artistic traditions. Many of the Maroons escaped slavery on Dutch plantations to establish their own independent communities in the rainforests of Suriname. Jungerman draws parallels between the geometric patterns of his own indigenous textiles against those of Modernism especially those of Mondrian in his adopted homeland. The textile element of these works complement Amer's beautifully with plaid patterned panels covered in kaolin obscurring much of the underlying plaid designs. The works are very rhythmic and grid-like, resembling the structured grids of Mondrian's established mature works. Other aspects of the artist's work are circular constructions representing abstracted, protective snakes and Earth Gods from Afro-Surinamese religion. The resulting artworks are subtle with flashes of colour and pattern beaming through the white kaolin layers. Jungerman's boxy constructions recalled the minimalist works of Donald Judd. The work of Jungerman was a fortuitous discovery.

 

 
















Ghada Amer: My Body My Choice
 &
Remy Jungerman: Fault Lines
until 28th May
Goodman Gallery
26 Cork 
London
W1S

Sunday, 22 May 2022

Wild & Cultivated: Fashioning the Rose

Oliver Messel & Hugh Skillen - Der Rosenkavalier, 1939



"What a lovely thing a rose is!" - Arthur Conan Doyle



Flowers, the rose in particular, have long been an enduring inspiration for artists, writers and designers, and adapted and interpreted by creatives into a varied range of art, fashion and textile designs. Much of the fascination with the rose arises in the contrasts found between the soft, velvety petals of the flower against the hardness of the thorns on the stem. These stark differences of the bloom have been used to create allusions to beauty, love, danger and even death by artists. This exhibition explores the myriad ways in which the rose motif has been adapted mainly in both fashion and textiles through a range of very covetable products. It is a theme that has of course been explored before, not least in this very blog (here) in part at the V&A's blockbuster Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams exhibition. A section of which explored the designers love of gardening and dresses created as a result of his love of flowers. Another exhibition currently on show (here) is Roses on the top floor of the flagship Alexander McQueen store on Old Bond Street which directly addresses the labels' fascination with the rose. Much of the content in Wild & Cultivated: Fashioning the Rose is immediately visually impressive as well as enlightening and informing. There are contributions from photographers Nick Knight, and Tim Walker, and exquisitely fashioned bejewelled, sculptural roses by Oliver Messel and Erté, and a dramatic necklace of rose thorns which have entrapped a finch by designer Simon Costin. The rose is adapted skilfully into high fashion in outfits by Alexander McQueen as mentioned, and Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons, as well as outstanding couture millinery by designers Stephen Jones and Philip Treacy, and Lulu Guiness's iconic Rose Basket bucket bag featuring silk roses. The curators also examine the social history of the rose in which we see depictions of Flora the goddess of flowering plants and the ways in which roses have come to personify the female form. Curators also touch on roses portraying queer sexuality in the illustrations of JJ Grandville and Walter Crane. The adaptation of the rose as a symbol of political protest by the suffragettes in the form of enamelled lapel badges was something previously unknown to me. The collection of ephemera in the form of vintage photographs and postcards of Rose Queen festivals in villages throughout the country were really charming, as were the equally ephemeral, delicate, clay sculptures designed to gradually erode over time by award winning ceramicist Phoebe Cummings. I hadn't been back to the Garden Museum since the Ivon Hitchens exhibition of 2019 (here), so after the Rose exhibition it was time to reacquaint myself with their permanent collection, and the stunning architecture and stained glass windows of this deconsecrated former church space. As the weather was so good I made the effort to climb the 131 cramped stone steps to the top of the clock tower to be rewarded with the stunning views of Lambeth Bridge and the Palace of Westminster along the Thames from the viewing platform at the top.





Nick Knight - Roses from my Garden, 2019
 
Simon Costin - The Nightingale and the Rose  Necklace, 1989
 


Oliver Messel & Hugh Skillen - Der Rosenkavalier, 1939
 
 
Erté (Romain de Tirtoff) - Rose, 1980

Alexander Anderson - The Garden Rose and the Wild Rose, 1771
 
Tim Walker - Primrose Archer Dressed in Flowers from my Garden, 2020
 
Lulu Guiness - Rose Basket bucket bag, 1993
 

Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons - Rose, c.1991
 

Alexander McQueen/Sarah Burton - Hybrid Rose, AW 2019
 

J.J. Grandville - Rose, 1847
 
J.J. Grandville - Eglantine, 1847
 
Walter Crane - Flora's Feast: A Masque of Flowers, 1889
 

 
Oliver Messel - Der Rosenkavalier, Glyndebourne Festival Opera 1939
 
Erté (Romain de Tirtoff) - Rose, Glyndebourne Festival Opera programme 1980
 
Women's Social & Political Union lapel pin badge, 1916

Rose Queen Festival ephemera
 


Artist unknown - Little Flower Seller, c.1870
 
Oliver Messel - Silk scarf for Cresta Silks Ltd, 1977
 
Slippers - 1830s
 
A la Couronne, corset c.1905
 
Duvelleroy fan leaf, rose flower shaped fan leaf, c.1900
 

Henri Fantin-Latour - White Roses in a Glass Vase, 1875
 
Phoebe Cummings - Study Roses, 2022
 

Evening Dress - 1950s
 

 
Philip Treacy - Sarabande Collection for Alexander McQueen, 2007
 
Stephen Jones - La France, French Kiss, AW2021
 
Christian Lacroix for Patou, SS, 1986
 



 
Jan Kop - Rosa Canina, 1800

Anne Tomlin - Black Bacarra red rose, 2022
 
Anne Tomlin - Rosa canina, 2022
 


Garden Museum interiors
 

Views from the Garden Museum clock tower roof
 






Wild & Cultivated: Fashioning the Rose
until 19th June
Garden Museum
Lambeth Palace Road
London
SE1