Sunday 24 September 2023

Women Behind the Weave: Bauhaus to Bosphorus

Gunta Stölzl - Tapestry 1923


As with most years there are only a few events staged as part of the London Design Festival which catch my attention and inspire me to want to visit. One such event this year was this exhibition at renowned rug maker Christopher Farr, which was staged to celebrate the production of a new kilim rug from an original 1923 Gunta Stölzl tapestry design. Another to add to the collection of Stölzl's catalogue that Christopher Farr produce so beautifully. I was introduced to the world of Christopher Farr rugs at an exhibition entitled - Form Through Colour: Josef Albers, Anni Albers, Gary Hume (here), which took place in 2014 at Somerset house, in which he artworks of these artists and others were beautifully and faithfully translated into the most sumptuous rugs. I first became aware of the work of Stölzl and the other women of the Bauhaus weaving workshop when researching other art and design practitioners who work from the rigid grid of the weaving loom for my Struktur series. Their abstract, geometric designs proved to be very inspirational. In 1919, the Bauhaus school manifesto welcomed "everyone without regard to age or sex". Despite this, women were directed to towards subjects deemed suitably feminine, fine art, ceramics and weaving. In 1925, Gunta Stölzl became the first female Master at the school as Head of the Weaving Department, and was largely left to experiment. Stölzl transformed the Weaving Workshop from a neglected department into one of its most successful facilities. During her tenure, she shifted the focus from pictorial work to more industrial designs, introducing radical ideas from the world of modern art to weaving, and initiated experiments in materials and methods that transported weaving into the modern age. It is there she mentored her renowned protégé Anni Albers. As well as celebrating the new rug design for Christopher Farr, this exhibition also showcases the work of modern day women weavers in Turkey who produce the kilim rugs for the company. Women Behind the Weave features the work and photographic portraits of a section of these Turkish women weavers. Traditionally weaving is carried out in the home by women in rural villages who are paid on piece work with no guarantee of future income or employee benefits. As a result this has led to a sharp decline in their numbers. Kirkit workshop employs women weavers on regular hours with access to lunch breaks, retirement funds and healthcare schemes. Each of the women in this exhibition were given surplus yarn from the workshop and encouraged to produce their own 1m square original artwork with varying results from the literal to the more imaginative abstract designs. All showcase the skills and craftsmanship for which Anatolian kilims have become famous worldwide however. 



Bauhaus weaving department Gunta Stölzl (top row, second from right), Anni Albers, bottom row, far right)

Bauhaus magazine 1931

Gunta Stölzl - Tapestry 1923




The women weavers of Kirkit


















Also on display at Christopher Farr was Gunta Stölzl's - Plate 111





Women Behind the Weave: Bauhaus to Bosphorus
London Design Festival 2023
until 22nd September
Christopher Farr
18 Calvin Street
London
E1

Sunday 17 September 2023

Rithika Merchant: Terraformation

Rithika Merchant - Providence (detail)



"My work is an act of self-soothing, a way of helping me to see hope in the future." - Rithika Merchant.

 




I greatly enjoyed viewing these intriguing works by artist Rithika Merchant in the airy, sunlit upper gallery space of the Kristin Hjellegjerde Gallery at London Bridge. In the paintings Merchant creates her own mystical, highly symbolic world inhabited by humanoid beings, executed in watercolour and gouache with some collaged elements. The exhibition sees Merchant examining the idea of terraforming a planet - modifying its atmosphere and eco systems to make it habitable and hospital for human life. Scientists are apparently theorising the practicalities of this idea too, to make the planet Mars fit for human habitation. These paintings are inhabited by hybrid, humanoid creatures with animal heads which appear to have taken their inspiration from the mythologies and paintings of Egyptian/Hindu cultures and gods such as Horus and Ganesh. Inspiration too could have been taken from Surrealism, the Symbolists and the likes of Hilma af Klint (here), who also created a stylised, idiosyncratic visual language of her own based on geometric and organic elements. Certain paintings here were also reminiscent to my eyes of the artwork and designs found on modern tarot card packs. Both the artist and gallery are interesting new discoveries.



Mothership II


Mothership I


Quantum Fluctuations


Terraformations







Providence


Cosmic Crucible

The Requiem



Astral Habitat

Structural Bifurcation

Biome in Bloom

Plant Medicine


The Albatross







Rithika Merchant: Terraformation
until 30th September
Kristin Hjellegjerde Gallery (London Bridge)
2 Melior Place
London
SE1