"I wanted to engage in a new creative dialogue with the collection this season and see how the artists interpreted the work that we created in the studio." - Sarah Burton
The PROCESS art installation sees 12 invited artists reinterpreting the fashion houses Pre-AW 22 collection. Each artist was given the brief of selecting an outfit and responding to it in their own style and chosen medium. The resulting dialogues between fashion and art and craft practices have resulted in some fascinating outcomes displayed among the prestigious dressess and accessories on the first two floors of the flagship McQueen boutique. The space was always concieved with the remit of being more than a place to just sell clothes, and has hosted two great themed exhibitions previously on the second floor level (here, and here). On this occasion as mentioned, things have changed so visitors can see the artworks against the garments that have inspired their creation. I enjoyed seeing the diverse ways in which the artists translated their visions, and it is a shame the installation occurs for such a short time, closing on the 21st June, but I'm sure, no doubt that there will be further showcases of McQueen's creative collaborations in the future.
Dressing Yellow - Marcela Correa
This work, a response to McQueen's stunning yellow dress, began in the middle of the pandemic with no opportunities for collaboration. As a result these pieces are possibly about absent faces and broken memories. The faces on the models are composites taken from fashion magazines.
The Wedding Dress that Takes Off Itself - Bingyi
A performance piece dramatically designed to fall off the body of the bride in sections as she walks down the aisle. The accompanying piece (just glimpsed) is the grooms outfit which has calligraphic messages of love inscribed on it.
Aqua - Jackie Nickerson
The artist describes the inspiration for this series of photographs as deriving from Alexander McQueen's love of nature, and Sarah Burton's description of her designs as being 'soft armour for women'.
Vessel of Wang - Jennie Jieun Lee
A response to a red leather dress and matching clutch bag from the Pre-AW 22 collection.
Sketch of Caitlin McQueen for McQueen - Hope Gangloff
A portrait of the artist's friend and neighbour through preparatory drawings and a painting with the dress that provided inspiration above.
Marigold - Beverly Semmes
A dramatic installation showing a yellow dress tucked inside a purple robe featuring a replica of the artist's pet Labrador and a pair of slippers. The striking yellow dress that inspired it is shown below.
Rumours - Jude Companion
Jude Companion is a pseudonym/alter ego the artist has constructed for herself. The masks which she calls 'hungry ghosts' reflect suppressed emotions and Companion's subconscious. The blue trouser suit that provoked the artists response can be seen below.
The Amina Project - Relics of War/Fragments and Courtiers - Marcia Kure
"The body is a communication device". The lines, glyphs and pictogams on the garment translate into centuries old trading and mapping systems and a portrait of Queen Amina (1533-1610), the warrior ruler of the Hausa State of Zazzau. The inspirational embroidered dress is featured below.
Untitled - Guinevere van Seenus
A series of Polaroid embroidered photographs by artist and some time McQueen model responding to the silver foil dress below.
Earthbound - Marcia Michael
"Women who have stood the test of time, forging their own stories, display the marks of their lives and commitment to the life they lived as proof. Identifying and drawing attention to the power of the breath and the veins that carry the essence of life itself, I wanted to acknowledge this through an embodiment." - Marcia Michael
Melted Heart - Ann Cathrin November Høibo
With so much masculine pressure going on in the world, it's important to keep the heart soft. The Alexander McQueen looks inspire me in that way, the gentle and feminine inside with a harder cover for protection. Hold hodet kaldt og hjerte vormt (Keep your head cool and your heart warm), as the artist likes to say in Norwegian. - Ann Cathrin November Høibo
Outfits for the inspiration of Ann Cathrin November Høibo woven piece.
Alexander McQueen - PROCESS
until 21st June
27 Old Bond Street
London
W1S