Pinacoteca del Castello Sforzesco

 

The forbidding outline of the Sforza Castle loomed large at the end of the periphery of Via Dante. It is an intimidating presence, completely dominating that section of the city, and one that was never far from sight, always on my radar. Other Milanese attractions were more pressing, but I finally visited Castello Sforzesco on the last day of my trip. There was a lot of ground to cover. I was not fully prepared for how large the former medieval fortification actually is. It is a vast complex housing several of the city's museums and art collections. Among these are the Michelangelo Museum, the Leonardo da Vinci Room, Museum of Musical Instruments and Egyptian Archaeological Museum which appear to flow seamlessly into one another as you negotiate the complex. A couple of the museums were closed on the day of my visit for renovation work so I was a little disappointed not to see the Leonardo Room especially, but there was more than enough for visitors to see despite this. The building was originally constructed as a stronghold at the behest of Galeazzo II Visconti between 1360 and 1370. Castello Sforzesco was built in the 15th century by Francesco Sforza, Duke of Milan, on the remnants of the 14th-century fortification. The Castello was transformed into a residence in the 15th century assuming a more luxurious form under the Sforza clan and attracted artists such as Leonardo da Vinci who were commissioned to create artworks. It was used as a barracks during a series of attacks by the Spanish, Austrians and French from the 16th to 19th centuries. Sforza Castle was later renovated and enlarged, in the 16th and 17th centuries by other members of the Sforza dynasty becoming one of the largest citadels in Europe, before being extensively remodelled by architect Luca Beltrami in 1891–1905. One of the things that struck me most about the castle were the beautifully decorated ceilings and walls covered in painted frescoes and murals by no lesser artistic talents than the likes of Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519) and Donato Bramante (1444-1514). They are delightful designs which still retained their rich colours and ornate patterns. Some were heraldic, others purely decorative, but all were a wonder to encounter, forcing me crane my neck to take in their beauty as I made my way from room to room of the complex. The nearest equivalent I can think of to Castello Sforzesco is London's Victoria and Albert museum as the collections of the various museums housed in the Sforza Castle complex contain a diverse variety of important ancient, modern and contemporary artefacts, paintings, objects and furniture. It was quite an exhaustive trawl to get through it all, but it was so worth it. The gallery housing Michelangelo's final unfinished sculpture alone made the visit well worth the entrance fee. The space is the site of the former Spanish hospital where soldiers in the 16th century suffering from injuries or plague would be treated and could read the verses of the Apostolic Creed written on the vaulted ceiling. A poignant setting then for the sculpture titled Pietà Rondanini. Michelangelo's Pietà appeared semi-abstract to my modern eyes, and somewhat contemporary in its "unfished" state, and yet is absolutely perfect as it is. The hushed gallery and the reverential tone and atmosphere of the former hospital space made for quite an emotive end to my Castello Sforzesco visit.

Pinacoteca del Castello Sforzesco

Castello Square

3-20100

Milano