Jacques-Émile Ruhlmann (1879-1933) - Élysée Sideboard (detail), 1920
The 1925 International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris was the first showcase to bring Art Deco to global prominence showcasing the work of mainly French designers, interior decorators and manufacturers. ‘It should cover a wide field of contemporary industrial and decorative art,’ stated the criteria set down by the exhibition’s organisers. ‘Reproductions or mere copies were excluded and… all exhibits should display genuine originality, fulfil a practical need and express a modern inspiration.’ Exactly one hundred years after this historic exhibition which introduced Art Deco style to the the world stage, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs is hosting a wonderful celebration of this bold, forward-looking style of expression in art and design in the very city where it all began. I took the opportunity to see the exhibition on my visit to Paris earlier this year. The Art Deco movement bridged the aesthetic gap between the decoratively sinuous curves of Art Nouveau and the stark, streamlined mid-century styles such as Bauhaus that followed. The design language of that era was bold and unapologetically opulent, born from the fast-paced Roaring Twenties, a period of dramatic social, cultural and economic change that straddled two World Wars and the Great Depression, and ushered in the Jazz Age, automobiles and the skyscraper. Art Deco introduced a highly distinctive style of architecture and product design that was glamorously geometric, showcasing craftsmanship that utilised the potential of symmetrical patterns and rich materials. F. Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby in literature perfectly epitomised the period's distinctive fashion trends, as well as jazz music, flapper culture, lavish interiors and rebellious youth. Sources of Art Deco designs included African tribal art, Central American (Aztec and Mayan) architecture and Pharonic Egyptian art due to the discovery of Tutankhamen's tomb in 1922. Contemporaneous art movements such as Fauvism, Constructivism and Cubism also informed the Deco style in terms of colours and shapes. Art Deco occurred during the Roaring Twenties and as well straight lines and geometric designs is synonymous with new or luxury materials such as shagreen (shark skin), ivory, chrome, lacquers, exotic skins and leathers as well as Bakelite and other new synthetics used in new and unusual applications. Key French designers whose work exemplified Deco style were Emile-Jacques Ruhlman, Jean Dunand, Armand-Albert Rateau and of course René Lalique. All are represented here along with Eileen Gray whose singular style appears to stand out and who is included to illustrate the diversity of Art Deco aesthetics and how each designer embodies Deco in ther own way. What I particularly like about the Art Deco movement and this exhibition in particular is the interdisciplinary nature of the pieces on display. We are presented with a gamut spanning the art/design spectrum with an array of fine art paintings, posters, jewellery, furniture, ceramics and architecture that all define the stylised, geometric nature of the movement. Hailing from a graphic arts background I was particularly invested in the poster designs of A M Cassandre on display, so iconic and redolent of the period, as well as the section presenting innovative leather book-bindings. The exhibition takes place across three floors of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs space, and each room rewards the visitor with a variety of spectacles. The period has been described as the 'golden age' of travel, and perhaps most impressively this is brought to life by the installation of Pullman carriages and a series of tableaux from the Orient Express train service, one of the the ultimate expressions of luxury. There is a cabin of the old Étoile du Nord train as well as three models of the future Orient Express, reinvented by Maxime d'Angeac. The experience is meant to feel immersive, visitors feel as if they are on the train enjoying the opulence with the scenes from the intimate sleeping cars and their bathrooms, as well as cosy dining cars speeding towards exotic destinations. There are many examples of design elements such as inlaid floral wall panels, and Lalique lighting and glass installations as well tea sets and typography used by Orient Express line. Upstairs there are examples of how Art Deco style was employed by airlines as air travel and package holidays were beginning to take off also. Art Deco appears to be a modern and timeless design style still inspiring designers today. from the bold, geometric designs in jewellery and watches by Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre, to fashion designers such as Alexander McQueen, Giorgio Armani and Miuccia Prada being influenced by dropped waists, flapper-style silhouettes and the dance marathons of the era. Enduring classics like the Chrysler building in architecture appear to be highly influential on the designs of Frank Gehry. Art Deco really does encapsulate a style, one which is being continually reinterpreted, which still speaks of luxury and opulence and is highly adaptable to modern tastes.
1925-2025. Cent Ans D'Art Déco.
107, rue de Rivoli
75001 Paris
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