joseph scissorhands: CHANEL, le19m and The King’s Foundation Métiers d’Art Fellowships Exhibition

Instagram's algorithm recently lead me to this exhibition of emerging artisans' fashion-related work in The Garrison Chapel situated in the heart of London’s Chelsea Barracks development. The Garrison Chapel is the last remaining building of the original 19th-century complex, and The King’s Foundation occupies the Grade II-listed Garrison Chapel in the former Chelsea Barracks to exhibit artworks to the public. I had visited the Barracks previously to see an exhibition of Dale Chihuly's amazing glass sculptures installed around the estate (here). The occasion of my visit this time was for an exhibition of final year projects of recent graduates from the Métiers d’Art Fellowships from The King’s Foundation. The two institutions CHANEL, le19m and The King’s Foundation Fellowships have a particular emphasis on traditional arts and heritage craft skills within the fashion industry with a specific remit to keep these specialist skills alive and help train the next generation of master craftspeople in their techniques. This philanthropic collaboration provides scholarships to emerging talents. For 8 months students live and work on a Royal estate undertaking a visit to le19M, Chanel's creative campus in Paris for further training with the specialist historic French ateliers Lesage, Atelier Montex, Maison Lemarie, Maison Michel and Paloma, where they learn a variety of craft techniques from these expert artisans. Chanel's le19M complex provides a workspace for 700 specialist artisans. The name is symbolic. 19 represents both the arrondissement where le19M is located and one of Gabrielle Chanel's favourite numbers (19 is also a brand fragrance and handbag). The M refers to Mode (fashion), Mains (hands), Metiers d'Art (crafts), Maisons (House) and manufacturers. Le19M was created in 1985 when Chanel realising the industry was losing many of these artisan ateliers and the specific skills they offer, began buying these ateliers/maisons to preserve their expertise which include embroidery, plumassiers, (feather workers), paruriers (costume jewellery), flower makers, pleaters, bootmakers, milliners and block makers. Chanel now owns 12 such maisons, their specialist teams and their precious archives of samples. The le19M complex also provides a cultural space with gallery, lecture programmes and workshops. It is now a thriving concern thanks to Chanel's foresight and intervention to save these skills before they are lost forever. The Métiers d'Art Fellowship has embroidery and millinery schemes with a new Atelier womenswear wear collection developed for this year. The theme for this year's students to work towards was "Queen Elizabeth II: Her Life and Style' - the current exhibition at Buckingham Palace. Students were invited to view items from her late Majesty's wardrobe at Windsor Castle from which they drew ideas and set about creating their own designs. I was particularly interested in seeing what the students had produced having visited the Palais Galliera in the French capital twice this year to see the superb exhibition - Tisser, Broder, Sublimer. Les Savoire-Faire De La Mode (Weaving, Embroidery, Embellishing. The Crafts and Trade of Fashion), which you can read more about here. That exhibition beautifully captures the exquisite craftsmanship and skills of 'les petit mains' (little hands), the uncelebrated artisans whose artistry embellishes the fashion designs and millinery of the great fashion houses. I was especially impressed with the embroidered details of the capes here which I found to be particularly outstanding, as well as the designs and skills of the hat makers. This is a really unique partnership, combining the knowledge and practical application of French craftsmanship with British imagination and creativity. It ensures that the future of a section of the fashion industry is in safe hands, which bodes well for the future creativity of British fashion. Vive L'entente Cordiale!