Thorvaldsens Museum has to be one of - if not the most beautiful museums that I have ever visited. Situated in the Slotsholmen district of Copenhagen the ochre coloured building looks like an impressive mausoleum, and its inner courtyard is actually the place where celebrated Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvadsen is interred. The exterior features slanting door and window frames, and a striking frieze depicting scenes of labour and shipping. Tableaus representing Thorvaldsens return to the city after a long career spent in Rome can also be found encircling the sides of the buildings facade. The exterior is no match for the interior though, which shimmers
like a jewel-box saturated with colour and pattern, all the better to showcase and offset the numerous
(dusty) white plaster and marble neo-classical statues created by the museums eponymous sculptor displayed inside. The building was designed by architect Michael Gottlieb Bindesbøll to resemble ancient polychrome architecture, and constructed from 1839-1848, is Denmark's oldest museum. My visit to this museum was really inspiring and sparked off a few ideas for possible new pieces of work. I would recommend it on any visit to the Danish capital for enthusiasts of architecture, classical sculpture and design. The staff are courteous and professional, which was thankfully, a big plus, and a quality I found sadly lacking at my visit to the Louisiana Museum outside Copenhagen's centre (here).
Bertel Thorvaldsen (1770-1844), self-portrait above, was born in Copenhagen and despite growing up in poverty, trained at the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts from the age of 11. His talent won him the Gold Medal and a scholarship for further study in Rome, and it is here that he chose to live and work for over 40 years, garnering a reputation as one of the most talented sculptors in Europe. Six years before his death Thorvaldsen returned to live in Copenhagen bequeathing all of his sculptures and art collections to his home city who created the Thorvaldsen museum in gratitude. Inspiration for Thorvaldsen's sculptures came from classical mythology, and his breakthrough piece was Jason and the Golden Fleece (which can be seen below) - a masterfully impressive piece of carving, and instrumental in winning Thorvaldsen commissions from Pope Pius VII in Rome and other major art patrons across Europe.
As well as Thorvaldsens' work the museum also hosts modern installations from contemporary artists such as these pieces currently on display by Hesselholdt & Mejlvang whose interventions open up a dialogue between the past and the present. I loved the subtlety of the white leaves scattered at the bases of plinths which reference the starkness of Thorvaldsen's white marble and plaster sculptures throughout the museum. Hesselholdt & Mejlvang have also placed a wreath on the statue of Victoria and the horses situated on the museum roof which you can just about make out in the first photograph of this post. I also liked their conceit of covering Thorvaldsen's masterly carvings with white sheets - an act of sheer effrontery but which also created an air of intrigue and mystery as to what exactly was being concealed from the viewer.
This large plaster sculpture of Jesus was found in a space that was appropriately enough called the Jesus Gallery. Thorvaldsen's original of the sculpture of Jesus can be found in Vor Frue Kirke across town in Copenhagen. So influential is this sculpture of Christ I was told, that it became the model for statues of Christ the world over, and still remains a powerful religious icon today. I took this claim with a pinch of salt until a few weeks later when back in London as I was walking past the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints on Exhibition Road, Kensington, and what should I spy in their window but...
I loved the deep aubergine coloured walls in the Jesus gallery space at the Thorvaldsen museum, and the linear plaster detailing of the vaulted ceiling below. Ceilings and their decoration within the museum are quite a thing as you can see in the following series of photographs. Exquisite!
I think you'll agree that the ceiling decorations almost threaten to overshadow the sculptures in the museum. Walking around the ground floor though, you see the evidence of just how great a sculptor Thorvaldsen was.
This statue of Jason and the Golden Fleece (above), was to be the piece that brought Thorvaldsen recognition, acclaim and fortune throughout Europe.
A stroll around the ground floor of the museum eventually brings you to the airy space of the Grand Hall where two massive equestrian statues face off from each end of the room. You can see the epic scale of these works in comparison to the visitors in the space.
Another huge sculpture is this of Hercules situated in the stairwell taking you on through the museum to the upper floor.
These were two of the upstairs landings, the decoration of which was every bit as intricate as those downstairs with plaster friezes, detailed patterned mosaic floors, intricately painted ceilings and a wealth of marble and plaster busts.
There were further examples of Thorvaldsen's neo-classical work in the upper floor galleries, and also just as interestingly cases of his collections - Egyptian antiquities, classical sculpture, books, drawings, paintings, furniture and coins, all valuable reference points for his sculptural work.
Even more spectacular ceilings featured in the individual upstairs galleries.
Not to be outshone by the ceilings though, the mosaic tiled floors throughout the museum were equally as colourful and geometrically patterned. Such gorgeously rich decoration may be a minimalists nightmare perhaps, but they were such a rich source of inspiration. Thorvaldsen's museum is a true wonder and a delight.
Thorvaldsens Museum
Bertel Thorvaldsens Plads 2
DK-1213
Copenhagen
